Introduction
Frogatt Edge has quickly become one of the biggest and best rock
climbing crags
in the Waikato region. Most of the routes have been re-bolted with
stainless steel ringbolts. As with other crags in the area Froggatt is
comprised of ignimbrite which is tough on your skin so a nice static style
will yield greater mileage.
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Assess
From the 'T' Intersection at Wharepapa South drive past the entrance to
the Wharepapa school and travel another 400m. Turn left into Whatauri Road
and travel approximately 1.1km to the parking area and entrance located
on your right.
The access situation at Frogatt in now very simple, however, all
climbers and non-climbers are requested to sign the book at the gate,
before following the track to the climbing areas. DO NOT DRIVE YOUR
VEHICLE ONTO THE FARM.
Froggatt Edge is located on private land owned by the generous Peter
Hunt and his family. (Trevor Froggatt formerly owned Froggatt, hence the
name). The Hunts are thrilled to have us climb their rock. Please remember
that they allows us to climb at Froggatt so treat them and their farm with
respect. Do the usual, i.e. leave gates as you find them, no dogs, don't
leave rubbish and if you see any, please pick it up etc. If you see Peter
say g’day and thanks.
Bouldering
Froggatt has a number of high quality Bouldering
problems. Thanks to the efforts of Tony Zaloum their details are included
in the Froggatt
Bouldering Guide.
Climbing Areas
As you walk down the farm track you pass the following climbing areas.
This area is situated over behind the pond as you walk down the farm
track. To access the area follow the track keeping the pond to your right
and follow the fence line up the hill, before crossing the style at the
top.
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From right to left beginning where fence line meets the rock
Volcanic 19 (15m) Face. 5 bolts. Begins immediately left of the
fence.
Streetwise 19 (15m) . Face 5 bolts plus a tree belay . Begins in
easy groove and finishes up overhanging wall.
The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt 18 (15m) Face. 6 bolts. A
superb name for a superb route. Follow the ringbolts left of the last
route all the way to the top.
Ignimbrite 20 (20m) Face. 7 bolts. Not one of the best routes
around, follows the truckload of bolts left of the last route, hard to
miss.
** Safe Playing 19 (20m) Face to steep slab. 6 bolts. Around the
corner from the last route, follow the bolts to the top.
Roadweary 18 (20m) Face to steep slab. 7 or 8 bolts. Left again,
up the funny looking crack thing to the top, shares belay with Safe
Playing.
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* Bonne Annee 16 (20m) Aręte . 5 or 6 bolts. The aręte to the
left of the last route, has reasonable run-outs for somebody leading the
grade. Starts on the left side of the aręte.
Serife 16 (20m) 5 bolts plus tree belay. The next obvious aręte
left of Bonne Annee.
Al Fresco 14 (20m) Steep slab/corner. 4 or 5 bolts, the tree
belay has been replaced with ringbolt belays. The left facing corner just
to the left of the last route ( Lana climbed this one).
Climatic Conclusions 17 (20m) Aręte to small gully, 8 bolts. The
next aręte along. This route begins here, climbs up and moves right onto
the face and finishes up the rubbishy gully. A variation is to finish up
the headwall of Monsterpiece Theatre.
| *** Monsterpiece Theatre 20 (25m) Slab to roof to steep face.
The route ascends the obvious slab, on through the small roof and moves
slightly right to finish up the overhanging headwall. |
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| *** Terror Incognita 17 (25m) Slab to aręte, 7 bolts. Climbs the
left side of the slab and works its way up the ever steep aręte/face
above. This climb has been described as a grade 17 with a 19 attitude, so
go for it. |
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** Powder Queen 18 (20m) Corner to
face, 7 bolts with double ringbolt belay. Around the corner just to the
left (yet again) this route scrambles up to the corner and heads on up the
face above.
* Tulsa Time 19 (20m) Overhanging face 6 bolts? Ascends the same
wall as Powder Queen but to the left.
One Mans Meat 14 (15m) Aręte, 4 ring-bolts. The route ascends
the gently sloping aręte to the double ringbolt belay.
Automatic Dour 27 (15m) Steep face. Again this climb is hard to
miss it ascends the vague aręte through some beautiful moves to the top.
Highly recommended.
Project. The face immediately left of Automatic Dour, something for the
future.
** White Christmas 16 (15m) Corner 4 ringbolts. A neat little
route which ascends the corner to the cave below the top of the cliff.
Usually dry this is a popular route for rainy days.
Blazing Away 19 (12m) Face. 2 bolts. Past the large block is a
small wall, Blazing away is the right most route and it ends at the same
cave as White Christmas.
Wallflower 17 (8m) Face, 2 bolts. The route to the left on the
small face described before ends at the same cave.
Spotty and SuperTed Strike Again 21 (12m) Face, 4 bolts. Follow
the track up the base of the gently overhanging face and climb the face
followed by the right aręte at the top.
New Area under development
This is a nice sunny spot with some nice easy routes (just don't fall on
the ledge)
Beer Garden
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