Kinloch is a wonderful sleepy hollow on the northern shores of lake Taupo. The climbing area is not well known, but well worth a visit if you are in or passing through Taupo. 

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bulletRoutes - 14
bulletGrades - 11 to 20
bulletCliff Heights - 7m to 20m
bulletRock Type - Rhyolite
bulletProtection - Natural & Fixed


The area is on private land so you will need to obtain prior permission from the manager Sam Andrews (07) 333 9331. To get there take the road (north of Taupo) to Kinloch and follow the road past the Marina and down Keitha Place. On the left you will notice a access way which takes you down to the crag.

 NOTE: The area backs on to some nearby residents, so moderate your language and be well behaved as we don't want to loose access. In the winter the access way can be a little wet so don't drive down if you think you may get stuck.


At the time of writing these climbs had not been incorporated into any guide, so just print this page and go for to. Climbs are described from left to right.

Wine Trail  10m  15.  Up the crack to a bolt chain belay. Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne - Nov 91.

There's Wetas In My 12m  14.  Located 10m right of Wine Trail is another obvious crack. Climb the crack to a bold chain belay. Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne - Nov 91.

Avalanche 20m 11.  Another 30m along is a deep crack which is quire steep at first and finishes at a bolt chain belay. Allan Kane (Solo) - Nov 91.

Tunnel-Web Tread  19m 14.  Climb the crack to the left of the overhanging flake and on to the face above. Mark Jones, Sally Rowe - Oct 91

Stab Of The Stonekeeper 8m 21.  Climb up the middle of the flake past a bolt and up to the top. Mark Jones - Oct 1991.

* Terminal Stillness  8m  16.  Climb up the right-hand crack (good protection around the flake, but not so good further up) and up to a chain belay. Mark Jones, Sally Rowe - Oct 1991.

Romancing The Haggis  17m  19. Located 7m right of Terminal Stillness, climb the arÍte and seam (quite good protection) and on up to the chain belay. Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Oct 91.

Rockness Monster  17m  19. This climb is 3m to the right of Romancing The Haggis is what is described as a "tricky around the bulge" move as you move left (with good protection) and up to the chain belay. Mark Jones, Sally Rowe - Oct 1991.

Highland Cling  15m  18. Located on the face around the corner from Rockless Monster. Climb up and past the big bucket in the middle of the face, before moving left to easier ground (2 bolts). Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Nov 91.

* Electric Wizard  15m 20.  About 2m to the right of Highland Cling is a roof, climb through the roof past the crux and on up to a chain belay. Mark Jones - Nov 91.

* Crystal Enquiry  15m  20.  Follow the stepped corner (with good protection) to the top. Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Nov 91.

* Buckets In The Belfry  15m 17.  Climb the arÍte to the right of Crystal Enquiry, to the ledge and up the face above the arÍte (3 bolts). Mark Jones, Allan Kane - Nov 91.

* Where To From Here  15m  16.  Follow the crack and the corner to a thought provoking roof. They say there is a secret hold to provide salvation. Allan Kane, Richard Dunne - Oct 91.

Waiting For The Ants  7m 14.  Climb the north face (1 bolt). Richard Dunne, Robyn Wayne - Nov 91.


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Copyright Steven Riddell 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 & 2003.