The Mangaraho rock climbing area is located about 150km north of Auckland or 25km south of
Dargaville. From Auckland drive north on State Highway 1 and turn left
onto Highway 12 at the foot of the Brynderwins. Follow Highway 12 to
Mititai Road which is located about 5 km past the Tokatoka Tavern. The
alternative approach is from Dargaville, travel south in Highway 12 for
about 15km before turning left onto the Mititiai road. Follow
Mititiai road for about 10km, and on up to the rock and park your vehicle
in the car park adjacent to the reserve where you will be facing the north
side of Mangaraho.
The twenty or so climbs on Mangaraho are mostly slab routes and use a
combination of bolted and natural protection. The climbs are described in
Northern Rock and we have included a other details to help you find your
Looking from the car park, there it is.
The Dihedral 18 (40m) John Main 1974 (pitch 1) & Glen Hawke
1990 (pitch 2)
Not a bad climb. Follow the obvious line that leads up the face and on
out to the left past the old fixed nut and the new (#4) rock
unintentionally donated and on to two bolts. Pitch 2 moves up and right
past a wooden wedge (don't rely on it's cord) then follow the under cling (#1 to #3) friends would be good. The climb finishes up a ramp and onto a
ledge with bolts on the east side of the roof. The ledge is actually the
end of the second pitch of the Slab Route.
Akna Matata 19 (45m) Richard Sticky Dale & Paul Hersey 1995
This climb starts from the end of The Dihedral (pitch 1) and moves out
left following the line, use cams (and anything that fits) reaching a
piton belay. the decent is by Abseil caution the sling.
From the car park enter the reserve through the gate and walk up the
track that heads slightly left until you reach a clearing with an old
wooden table. This is the Trinity Slab area, climbs in are described from
right to left when facing the rock.
Roam 17 (55m) John Smith, Dan Harthorn 1994
This is a two pitch sport route with bolts and chains. Pitch 1 (16) The
first two bolts don't offer much protection from the ground before the
route moves up and out to the right. Finish the first pitch at a double
chain belay up a small ramp by a tree. Pitch 2 (17) Up through the crack
and follow the obvious line to the top. A nice climb (other than the