Introduction
| Predominately a sport climbing area, the Paynes Ford rock climbing area offers routes that are generally vertical to slightly overhanging
but with some
steeper roofs. Climbers are offered a range of limestone features including pocks,
cracks and flowstone which could be characterised as 'interesting slopers'. |
(photo by Kelly Cudworth) |
The area is most popular in Summer especially around Xmas and New Year, however spring and autumn
are the best seasons, as it is not so hot. In winter you're likely
to be almost on your own with good friction during the shorter days but be
prepared for cold
nights. Routes may be dirty after the winter/spring
rains which hinders on-sighting. Takaka can have heavy rain, after which is can take a few days
for the crags to dry (due to runoff from above).
Access
Near Takaka, in Golden Bay at the NW end of the South Island.
Motueka is approximately 50 minutes drive over the Takaka Hill (Highway 60).
From Christchurch it is approximately 6 hours drive, or approximately 1.5 hours
drive from Nelson.
Approaches are typically 5 to 15 minutes of easy walking on well maintained tracks.
Climbing
Paynes Ford is west facing and gets the afternoon sun, though there are some shady areas though.
Tarakohe on the other hand is north facing so it gets the morning sun and no shade.
Bring a 50-60m 10mm+ rope (60m essential to get down off the longer routes).
You will also need about
12 draws plus light rack of wires, CD's to #3 and a carpet square to clean your feet on! |
![paynes_africanheadcharge[1].jpeg (34891 bytes)](paynes_africanheadcharge1_small.jpeg)
Chris Plant on "African Head Charge" (26)
(photo by Simon Middlemass) |
Recommended Routes
16: Doolittle, Blobbet
17: Goodbye Cream Poofters, Stairway Of The Gods
18: Ambrosia, Temples Of Stone
19: Gobble Gobble Yum Yum, Bored Of The Rings
20: Hi I'm Doctor Terrific, Loose Unit, Rat Up A Drainpipe
21: Burn Hollywood Burn, Headplant, R For Ranger D For Danger
22: Rawhide, Electricorp Production, Go With The Flow, You're Either Dead Or You're Not
23: Send A Gorilla, Amino Pro, 1080 And The Letter G, Superconductor
24: Daves Arete, Jive Bombing, Dread Carefully
25: Responsible Lunges, Make My Day, Feeling Lucky Punk, Body Nazis
26: African Headcharge, Creative Confusion, Fish On Heat
27: Cloudwalker, Stoned Monkey, Papageno, Smells Like Fish
28: Dancing On A Skewer, Fauvism
30: African Headcharge (direct start) |
![paynes_cream[1].jpeg (38155 bytes)](paynes_cream1_small.jpeg)
Bianca Walker on "Goodbye Cream Poofters" (17)
(photo by Simon Middlemass) |
![paynes_highvoltage[1].jpeg (30319 bytes)](paynes_highvoltage1_small.jpeg)
Corrine on "High Voltage" (23)
(photo by Simon Middlemass) |
![paynes_1080[1].jpeg (28726 bytes)](paynes_10801_small.jpeg)
Nick Sutter on "1080 And The Letter G" (23)
(photo by
Simon Middlemass)
|
![paynes_bodynazis[1].jpeg (36980 bytes)](paynes_bodynazis1_small.jpeg)
Ton Snelder on "Body Nazis" (25)
(photo by
Simon Middlemass) |
Other Activities
Surfing, Caving, Mountainbiking, Tramping, Cafes, Raves (eg the Gathering)
Swimming holes at the river are brilliant (as are the riverside boulder problems)
![paynes_bouldering[1].jpeg (56489 bytes)](../paynesford/paynes_bouldering1_small.jpeg) Jochen Lenfert bouldering at the swimming hole
(photo bySimon Middlemass)
Accomodation
Hangdog Camp is just a few metres from the crag just on the R after you cross the Paynes Ford bridge 4km before Takaka. $4 per night camping, shower, toilets and a
bunkhouse. The climbers hangout.
Just turn up or phone 03 525 9093; http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/hangdog.camp/
![paynes_firebreathing[1].jpeg (39570 bytes)](../paynesford/paynes_firebreathing1_small.jpeg) Chris 'Lizzard' Burtenshaw lights up the night at Hangdog
(photo by
Simon Middlemass)
|
![paynes_africanheadcharge[1].jpeg (34891 bytes)](paynes_africanheadcharge[1].jpeg)
![paynes_cream[1].jpeg (38155 bytes)](paynes_cream[1].jpeg)
![paynes_highvoltage[1].jpeg (30319 bytes)](paynes_highvoltage[1].jpeg)
![paynes_1080[1].jpeg (28726 bytes)](paynes_1080[1].jpeg)
![paynes_bodynazis[1].jpeg (36980 bytes)](paynes_bodynazis[1].jpeg)
![paynes_bouldering[1].jpeg (56489 bytes)](../paynesford/paynes_bouldering[1].jpeg)
![paynes_firebreathing[1].jpeg (39570 bytes)](../paynesford/paynes_firebreathing[1].jpeg)