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Quamby Lodge
Mountain Shop
Natimuk | |
Rock Climbing Mt Arapiles
Mt Arapiles has become the destination
of choice when seeking a multi-pitch rock climbing adventure holiday. With over 3000 climbs, Mt Arapiles
is one of the best traditional rock climbing areas in the world.
| The best place to experience rock climbing Mt Arapiles is up on one of
the many classic routes. |
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Access
Located about 300km from Melbourne Australia, there's typically two transport options:
 | By Road - From Melbourne travel the Western Highway 300km to
Harsham, then travel a further 25km to Natimuk and then on another 8km
to Mt Arapiles. Renting a car is an excellent option especially when traveling
as part of a group. |
| By Train - Travel from Melbourne to Horsham and make your own
arrangements to Mt Arapiles. Having talked to people who have used
this method, I would recommend renting a car. |
Accommodation
While some climbers elect to stay in the camping area adjacent to Mt
Arapiles, the creature comforts of Quamby Lodge is well worth the
the small extra investment.
| Quamby Lodge - The lodge is located on the
main road of Natimuk and has excellent facilities at very reasonable rates. |
| Camping - The camping area at Mt Arapiles is fairly primitive but equipped with
a public toilet and fresh water.
Due to the water quality it is recommended you
boil all drinking water. |
Equipment & Giude Books
Well you're in luck, the Mountain Shop
located in Natimuk (just minutes from Mt Arapiles) is one of the best stores
of its type in Australia.
For the multi-pitch rock climbing at Mt Arapiles, we recommend a double set of RP's, double set of Wired Nuts,
a range of Cams, Some Hex's, 10 Quick Draws and a single 50m Lead Rope (A set of doubles are of advantage on some
routes and they will also allow you to Abseil a full 50m).
| Arapiles Selected Climbs - This is
one of the best guide books we have seen, with clear descriptions
and routes marked on photographs it's well worth the investment.
Available from the Mountain
Shop
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Seasons
| Spring (September to November) is generally fine, however it can rain
with little warning. |
| Summer (December to February) is dry and hot, with climbing often restricted to the shady gullies |
| Autumn (March to May) is generally fine with cooler nights |
| Winter (June to August) while it can be wet and cooler, you can get
some near perfect days. |
Ethics
Mt Arapiles is a traditional rock climbing area with only a few bolted
routes, typically at higher grades and where natural protection is not
possible. There are numerous examples where inappropriate bolting has
resulted in the bolt being pulled out or cut off. Leave the area
exactly as you found it and this includes removing all of
your rubbish. |
Areas
Southern Group
Consisting of Pilot Area Wall, The Atridae and
Organ Pipe Areas, This area iffers great climb that typically extends to
about 50m.
The Plaque Area
This area includes the right side of the Central Gully, Dunes Buttress,
The Plaque Area and Bard Buttress. The area offers a wide range of climbs
with heights from 10m to 120m including a number of absolute classics.
Tiger Wall
The action heats up on Tiger Wall and so do
the grades.
ThePharos
This is a brilliant place literally covered
in climbs with a 45m abseil off the back (which is great at night).
Watchtower Faces
Dust off the rack, you will need all of your
toys to play in this area. The Watchtower area offers a bit of everything
including face, crack and off-widths. While there are some short routes
most range around 100m and up to 170m. For those of you with an aversion
to walking, there is a double 45m Abseil on Right Watchtower Face.
Northern Group
An extensive area with dozens of great rock
climbing routes. 
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